孤立波近岸传播与浅水效应的实验与数值分析

Model experiments and numerical simulations were conducted to design and test the generation, propagation, and shoaling of solitary waves over a long mild slope to investigate offshore evolution characteristics of tsunami waves. This study first introduced the design and arrangement of an experimental model and the explored the influence of wave height on solitary waves' propagating offshore in aspects of deformation and breaking. Finally, the test data were analyzed, processed, and compared with the simulation result based on constrained interpolation profile (CIP) and other published numerical data. The experiment has a high performance of repeatability and agrees well with the numerical results. The CIP-based computational method can handle strongly nonlinear phenomena, such as wave breaking and water vapor mixing. The nonlinear characteristics become more apparent and are continuously enhanced as solitary waves' shoaling propagates over a long mild slope. On the same slope, the higher the wave height is, the faster the propagation will be; moreover, the quicker the incident wave height ascends, the faster the breaking point occurs.